Champagne, France

We first met with Paul Clergeot of Champagne Petit Clergeot on a sunny day in late March. It was a nervous period as bud break happened once again way too early and frost nights were due a few consecutive nights after. Especially for Paul’s ‘Chevry’ parcel frost is often a risk, being very close to the bottom of the valley next to river Seine.

Paul’s domaine started back in 2017 after years of honing his skills with Champagne Fleury and the Brocard family to name but a few. Since then he has been looking after 8ha of family vineyards in Polisot and vines he took on in Montgeux and Riceys — two of the Côte des Bar most respected terroirs. As we visit his steeper parcel ‘Les Commes’ on the top of Polisot he explains that he adapts his farming system based micro-climates as even vines a few metres apart can have a totally different requirements. Here he also works without tractor and wants to change to a higher training system without cutting the apex to allow for slower ripening. Still, he adds, there’s not a better or worse approach but instead you really need to observe what makes sense for each site.

As we arrive in his newly built cellar (with a beautiful Coquard press as the centre piece) it becomes clear how small Paul’s operation really is. Among a handful of tanks there’s a small collection of clay vessels and used barrels mainly used for Coteaux Champenois from Riceys and Montgeux when the vintage allows. Very few vignerons have such a humble and transparent approach like Paul. Farming organically and working hard really is at the heart of Paul’s vision and we are excited to show his crystalline Champagnes to many of you in the coming months and years ahead.